Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Kagurazaka Event: Awa Odori Matsuri

The Kagurazaka Awa Odori is held every year toward the end of July (24, 25 in 2009). The festival is based upon the very famous Awa Odori held in Tokushima, and is a showcase for lively and expressive traditional Japanese dancers. Normally, on the first day of the Kagurazaka Awa Odori, dance troops from around Japan entertain the crowds which line Kagurazaka-dori (from Kagurazaka Station to Iidabashi Station).

On the second day of the odori, local troops and many children from area schools participate in the parade of dancers. The dancing is better on day one, but the crowds watching are more enthusiastic on day two as their friends, neighbors, and family members are participating.There are two main styles of dance, otoko odori (male dance) and onna odori (female dance). Only women dance the onna odori style and it is done standing tall with graceful above the shoulder hand movements and special steps which are often only on the front of the geta sandals. Both men and women do the otoko odori style which is danced in a squatted position with wild, enthusiastic hand movements (and often lanterns).
Live music is provided by musicians within each dance troop. Listening to the beat of the drums is infectious, it is extremely hard to stand still.
Matsuri are one of the only chances many Japanese get to really 'let their hair down'. I attend as many festivals as I can each year as everyone is truly relaxed, and the community spirit is so strong. It is wonderful to see people of all ages and backgrounds having fun together while unconsciously keeping the historic culture of Japan alive.
I highly recommend this matsuri. It is not that famous outside of Kagurazaka, so the crowds are reasonable. Bring a small plastic tarp and sit on the curb for an incredible front row view. Larger crowds congregate around Bishamon Zenkokuji Temple. For a little more space, head to the north of Kagurazaka-dori, closer to Kagurazaka Station itself.
Getting there: Kagurazaka-dori is just outside of Iidabashi Station and Kagurazaka Station.

Kagurazaka Event: Hozuki Ichi Matsuri

Hozuki Ichi, or ground cherry pods, are just an excuse to get people out into the streets of Kagurazaka for a matsuri. Actually, the two day festival on July 22 and 23 (2009), is a lead up to the famous Kagurazaka Awa Odori the following two days (July 24 and 25).
The Hozuki Ichi Matsuri is limited to a small area around Bishamon Zenkokuji Temple. There were a number of food stalls and live entertainment (see the 'famous' Japanese 'talent' above); but few actual Hozuki Ichi to be found. Unless you live in Kagurazaka, visit during the Awa Odori instead (see next review).
Getting there: Bishamon Zenkokuji Temple is just a short walk up Kagurazaka-dori from Iidabashi Station.


Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Restaurant Review: Laroche Kamikura

Down the back alleys of Kamakura lie a number of hidden restaurants, Laroche Kamikura is one of them. A sister to the original Restaurant Kamikura, Laroche Kamikura specializes in rotisserie chicken.

Located on the 3rd floor (there is an elevator and/or stairs) of a traditional Japanese style building, the decor is simple - all natural wood with creamy white walls. Other than wooden wine crates along the ceiling of one wall, the are no paintings, photos,... Two walls are made of glass, one looks out onto a black slat wall, the other has a balcony covered with small trees. This window lets in a lot of welcome natural light. English pop music plays in the background.
Singles are usually put at the counter - the 6 seats here are quite comfortable and have a view into the open kitchen. Along the balcony window lies a long, soft bench seat - with five 4-top tables along it. There are more tables toward the front door, a private room, and a terrace that is open during nice weather.
There are four lunch options.
1) Rotisserie Chicken Plate 1200 yen. It includes a salad, potato, bread, and coffee
2) Fois gras 'don' 1300 yen. Includes soup, mini dessert, and coffee
3) A Lunch Course 1500 yen. Includes salad, rotisserie chicken or fish of the day, bread, mini dessert, and coffee.
4) B Lunch Course 2000 yen. Includes a salad, choice of the fish or meat of the day, bread, choice of dessert (Cassis sorbet, Caramel ice cream, chocolate cake, white chocolate mousse, Japanese pear mousse, or crem-caramel), and coffee.

I chose 'A Lunch' and fish of the day. I also had a glass of red house wine. It was served room temperature and cost 500 yen. I was soon served a couple small slices of French bread and some olive oil for dipping. The salad was a nice sized portion. No iceberg lettuce, instead a tasty mix of greens, onions, tomatoes, and even a few peach slices - all in a light vinaigrette sauce. The main dish was a mild white fish, served on top of cabbage and mashed potatoes, with a few string beans for decoration. It was delicious, and not at all fishy tasting.
The dessert was a creme brule', served with coffee. A delicious lunch at a very reasonable price.

In the evening, in addition to an 'a la carte' menu, there are two dinner courses. A 'Kagura' Course, 3,800 yen (amuse bouche, salad, soup, choice of main dish, dessert plate) and a 'Laroche' Course, 4500 yen (amuse bouche, salad, special appetizer, soup, main fish and main chicken, dessert plate).

Menus are only in Japanese.

Lunch: 11:30 - 14:30 (last order 14:00) *Sundays and holidays, 12:00 - 14:30
Dinner: 17:30 - 23:00 (last order 22:00) *Sundays and holidays 17:00 - 22:00

Address: Kagurazaka 3-1, Kure-ru Kagurazaka II 3F
Phone: 03-3266-1551

Getting there: From Iidabashi Station, exit B3, go right up the slope. Just before the Circle K, make a right. Turn down the 2nd small alley on your left. Then, take the next small alley to your right. Laroche Kamikura will be on the left hand side, on the corner of the next small alley.

http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g394610/ (information, only in Japanese)

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Kagurazaka Event: Public Safety

Kagurazaka is often blocked off to car traffic on the weekends, and sometimes during lunchtime. I was walking to lunch on Sunday, June 14, when I came across this public safety campaign. There were a number of police around, and the Kagurazaka Geisha were invited to draw attention to the campaign.
This man on the right, who works for the police department, drew a sketch based on what he had been told about the man on the left. Nice similarity! Afterwards, the Geisha and police officers handed out free tissue advertising the campaign.
Kagurazaka holds all kinds of events, but this was the first time I had seen the Kagurazaka Geisha. The campaign lasted only about 20 minutes, then one Geisha went home and the others took a walk down the street.
They met one of the 'big-wigs' from the campaign for lunch here, at a tasty Chinese restaurant.There are only a handful of areas in Tokyo that still have a Geisha population (Asakusa, Kagurazaka, Shimbashi,...). The Geisha in Asakusa are the easiest to see as there are a lot of special events there in which they participate.

Visit Kagurazaka during a special occasion and maybe you'll get to see the few that live here too.

Restaurant Review: Cafe Le Coquillage

Down a deadend alley near Iidabashi Station lies the lovely little French cafe, Le Coquillage. The alley is quiet, so the three small outdoor tables are highly recommended. Inside, long benches line two walls. There are twelve '2-top' tables along them, as well as five more '2-tops' in the center of the cafe. All can be pushed together to make larger tables.

The interior is reminicient of a true French cafe; a burgundy patterned carpet, and tiles, sit under dark brown tables and chairs. Walls are decorated with black and white photos of France, and a variety of French posters. Waiters are dressed in black pants, white shirts, black aprons, and black ties. The day I visited, jazz and bosa nova, sung by Lisa Ono, was playing in the background.
Lunch here is an especially good deal. Choose from a variety of galettes (crepes filled with ham, cheese, mushrooms,...), tartines (open-faced sandwiches), and quiches. All come with salad, your choice of dessert crepe, and coffee/tea for only 1500 yen.
I had a spinach, ham, and cheese galette, with a glass of their house red wine. The galette was fantastic, the wine as it should be - room temperature and tasty. Afterwards I chose the most basic crepe dessert - butter and sugar. With my coffee, it was a perfect end to a delicious meal.
The menu is in French and Japanese, although the specials are only in handwritten Japanese -and are written in chalk on the wall. The staff was extremely attentive and professional. Credit cards are accepted. Le Coquillage is also open for dinner.
Address: Shinjuku-ku, Kagurazaka 2-12-10, Hills Kagurazaka 1F
Phone: 03-3269-7003
They are closed on Mondays.
Access: From Iidabashi Station's exit B3, make a right and walk up the hill. At the Royal Host, turn right. Turn right again at the first alley - at the end is Cafe Le Coquillage. Another tasty French restaurant, Le Clos Montmartre is also in this alley.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Restaurant Review: Kameido (Japanese & Chinese)

Kameido was a very nice surprise! The food offerings are regular 'shokudo' choices: katsu-curry (pork cutlet with curry over rice), ome-rice (omelete stuffed with rice and topped with ketchup),... But, the interior is not what you'd expect, it feels more like a nice Italian restaurant. The walls are cornflower, dark green, and dark brown. Tables, chairs, and the floors, are dark wood. A couple of colorful, yet tasteful, pieces of art adorn the walls. Otherwise, it is totally clean and clutterfree. It is also very spacious, with lots of room between the seven tables for 4, and three tables for 6.

I had the Chinese chicken and vegetable stir-fry lunch. First, I was served a tasty cup of egg drop soup and a side dish of spicy glass noodles and fried tofu. Then, my meal came - it was huge. A bowl of rice with a plate full of fried chicken, eggplant, baby corn, and green peppers in a slightly sweet and spicy sauce. Everything was delicious and I was especially impressed that my tiny water glass was never less than half full - and I drink a lot of water with my lunch!
The menu is entirely in Japanese, but there are pictures outside and on the menu itself. There are about 10 lunch choices, and all are 900 yen. It is also possible to add a drink for a bit extra.

The business card for Kameido says, "Restaurant and Bar", so alcohol must be available in the evening.

Hours of Operation: 11:30 - 23:00 (last order 22:30)

Closed on Sundays and holidays.

Address: 162-0825, Shinjuku-ku, Kagurazaka 6-39, Kameido Bld. 2F

Less than one minute walk from exit 1 of Kagurazaka Station on the Tozai Subway Line. Exit the station and turn left. Make an immediate left at the light. Walk to the shrine at the end of the street, and turn left. Kameido down a bit on your left. There is a bread shop under it on the 1st floor, and an Italian restaurant just across the street.

Phone: 03-3269-0441

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Restaurant Review: Cafe Creperie Le Bretagne

Kagurazaka is considered a French neighborhood, and this cafe is Japan's first Creperie. Bertrand Larcher, the owner, introduced the galette to Japan - a crepe made from 100% buckwheat flour. Topped with a combination of French ham, top quality cheese, eggs, mushrooms, and/or farm-fresh vegetables; this is a simple lunch like no other in Tokyo. Well, not exactly true. You can get also get a really delicous galette at La Coquillage, just down the street! (see review).


On my visit I had one of the lunch specials. I chose a galette topped with mushrooms, cheese, and tomato. Absolutely delicious.


The cafe has a small, outdoor patio which is almost always full of people. In fact, if you want to make sure you can get in for lunch, I recommend arriving around 11:25am, or after 1:30pm. In between, there is often a line of those waiting for a table.

Menus are in French and Japanese.

Address: 1F Comfort Kagurazaka 4-2, Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. A 4 minute walk from Iidabashi station, exit B3. It is down a small alley that is directly opposite the red Bishamon temple.

TEL: 03-3235-3001

Hours of Operation: 11:30 - 22:30 (last order) / 11:30 - 21:00 on Sundays. Closed on Monday.

For other locations and more information, check their English website: http://www.le-bretagne.com/e/top.html